Foxton and Market Harborough again

Terrible recent stormy weather changed our more adventurous plans so we aimed to go out for 3-4 days in a window of sunny opportunity. And so, in warm sunshine, though amidst chilly winds and cool mornings, we set out from Welford for Market Harborough.
We are quickly down the Foxton locks in an admirable 40 minutes, mooring at the bottom and eating in the evening at Foxton Locks Inn.

Next day we are up promptly and off to Market Harborough in bright sunshine, though it's still chilly.  We note the pedestrian swing bridge is still broken, push aside the swing road bridge and continue down the Market Harborough Arm. The trees are turning to autumn gold, the canal is full of substantial branches brought down by the strong winds and spying floating logs ahead makes me think of spotting crocodiles in the Zambezi River (there are more hippos than crocs on the Zambezi: Ed).
One of the timbers attaches itself to us but John bravely fights it off with our boat hook and we are saved. Nevertheless the canal is awash with green shade and sparkling sunlight: ideal idle boating.
After an uneventful stroll through Market Harborough (see recent references in our blog here and here) we head back and moor up at Black Horse Bridge, anticipating a pleasant meal at the Black Horse Inn. Frustratingly there is a large sign proclaiming NO FOOD TONIGHT so we trot back down the hill, and in gathering gloom we move our moorings nearer to Foxton Locks basin and return to Foxton Locks Inn for a second night.

On the third day, with no time for reflection, we climb once more up the scarred and leaking locks of the Foxton flight (yes it's two staircases of 5 locks each but it's convenient to call the whole lot a flight.)
The homeward stretch is very pleasant, pausing for advice at the old North Kilworth boatyard.
We note also that the new marina at Kilworth is now open for mooring and not overly expensive for annual mooring, compared with Welford, if you don't take the £600 Services package. However do note that if you don't want electricity, laundry etc but you do want water, it seems you'll have to buy into the package - an expensive way to buy water.
Happily home at Welford (and with free water ...) we take the opportunity to wash and polish dear Patience, leaving her burnished and shining - at least on the port side. Next week, weather permitting, we may polish her starboard.

Foxton Locks looking down

Foxton Locks looking up

Swing bridges near Foxton

There are two swing bridges to negotiate near Foxton. The first is a pedestrian bridge guarding the entrance to the Market Harborough Arm. This requires a BW key. The helmsman moors up to the left of the bridge while the crew walks across, unlocks the bridge (if clear of pedestrians?!), swings it to the side letting the boat through, then returns it to position before walking back to hop on to the boat moored nearby. This is a quirky little episode but not challenging - unless you're a solo boater. Incidentally it was broken on our last visit (July 2017) - open to boats but pedestrians are re-routed to the fixed bridge.

The second swing bridge is a mile or so further on and, because it is a road bridge you are moving has more safety features, is heavier, and has the added burden of the responsibility for delaying the cars waiting for you to finish.
It may be helpful to describe how to use this bridge so you can approach it with more confidence.
Bear in mind that everything must be done in the correct sequence with every catch, key and barrier slotted in to its correct place or you (and the fuming traffic) will be frustrated.
Also, it's impossible for solo boaters, who must wait for another passing boat to give a hand.

1. Moor up at the bollards before the bridge.

2. Take BW key then walk to and across the bridge
3. Read instructions carefully ...

then insert BW key in the control box (on left of this picture) and give it a quarter turn.

4. If road is clear of traffic, walk back across the bridge and swing the barrier across the road.
5. Walk across the bridge again and close second barrier.
6. Pull red handle to disengage the hook holding the bridge in place.

7. Now you can push, with all your weight, the long grey bar that moves the bridge. Keep going until canal is completely clear.

8. Indicate boat to pass through. Check there are no other boats coming.
9. When boat is completely through close bridge by pushing or pulling on the long grey bar. Make sure it is fully lined up with the road's white lines and check the catch is back into position. Leave the key in!
10. Open the first barrier and push the end into its slot.
11. Walk back across the bridge and open the second barrier.
12. Walk across bridge again to reclaim key and apologise to queue of traffic.
13. Walk back across bridge (for the sixth time!), through the other gate to your boat.

Congratulations. Can you do it quicker next time?

To Market Harborough

The previous post recorded a trip from Welford through Foxton Locks towards Market Harborough, which was then aborted due to a tree across the canal. We repeated this trip and succeeded in reaching Market Harborough this time.
The weather throughout was a perfect balanced of a slight breeze, sunshine and warmth which highlighted the peace and beauty of both the Leicester line and the Market Harborough arm. For us this offers us a restful passage through overhanging greenery punctuated by a tunnel at Husband's Bosworth, the impressive locks at Foxton and the interest of two swing bridges with a final destination in the attractive market town of Market Harborough. It's just two hours from Foxton to Market Harborough, offering a pleasant day out from Foxton.

Market Harborough arm

We recommend the museum and library here, situated in The Symington Building, the old corset factory. We also remember that pioneer of the canal revival, LTC Rolt visited the town in "Cressy" (see chapter 12 of Narrow Boat), and later, with Robert Aikman, proposed the first boat rally at the town, in 1950.
We moored at the beginning of the Market Harborough Arm, which is off the Leicester Line of the Grand Union, with the choice of refreshment from Bridge 61 traditional pub, Foxton Locks busy restaurant and - our preference - The Black Horse at Foxton. We note there is also a steak house at Foxton but we opted for The Black Horse which is just right for us with a range of beers and excellent pub grub, plus wi-fi.

The bottom lock at Foxton

It was a relaxing trip with the exception of one pushy boat who forced his way in front of us and sped ahead at a rate we had neither desire nor ability to compete with. "It is better to travel hopefully than to arrive" and "Boating is the fastest way to slow down" are firmly in our minds.

Welford to Foxton again

For Patience, moored at Welford, the trip to Foxton Locks is a convenient overnight, and could be done in a day. This time we planned to visit Market Harborough which we last visited two years ago.
All started well, though the weather was a bit variable with much putting on and taking off of jumpers and waterproof jackets. Nevertheless we reached Foxton in good time (less than 4 hours) with only a slight collision between our aft rail and the brickwork of the Husband's Bosworth tunnel to spoil the journey. Having swept away the brick dust and found the rail grazed but not injured, we felt inspired to descend the staircase at Foxton, which can take anything between 40 minutes and several hours, depending on traffic. We feared a long queue of boats returning from the Crick event but it was no worse than usual.
We moored conveniently in the basin and celebrated with a beer and a meal at the Foxton Locks restaurant. Very busy here in the warm evening sunshine.
In the morning we headed down the Market Harborough arm, hoping to visit their museum, but unfortunately a fallen tree had blocked the canal - conveniently close to a winding hole for us but inconvenient for those hoping to leave Market Harborough.

With no way of knowing how long the waterway would be blocked we turned and retreated towards Foxton. With noise from Foxton Locks Inn echoing in the distance we decided to try The Black Horse at Foxton - and that was a good choice. It was quiet, an attractive pub and grounds, with good beer and very good value lunch. The church is worth a look too. We ambled back to Patience, moored just 100 metres away, and found that the tree was now cleared.
However we were now facing the wrong way for Market Harborough so we continued back to Foxton where we used the convenient water point to wash the roof.
Now we decided we couldn't be bothered to head to Market Harborough once more so we joined the queue for the locks. Three hours later we emerged at the top lock after more than an hour queuing at the bottom plus an hour or more moored in the centre pound while descending boats passed us by (or nearly collided - Horatio that was close!).

Wooden butty Raymond man-hauled through Foxton locks

Working boat ‘Nutfield’ passing Patience in the centre pound at Foxton

One plus from this was that we saw the wooden butty Raymond which was laboriously man-hauled through the locks by the volunteer lock keepers. Raymond was the last wooden narrow boat built for carrying in Britain, launched at Braunston in June 1958.

Reaching the top at 7pm, well after the lock keepers' bed times, (we salute you, hard working men!) we moored up near the sculpture of the boy and the horse then walked back to The Black Horse in Foxton. After a close shave with a fast moving black Audi we decided the towpath route was preferable to the country road ....  Nevertheless we had a very good meal and good beer and were able once more to stagger back to our moorings above the locks.
Next day we set off early to return to Welford, a very pleasant trip through dappled shade, with delightful views of the Laughton Hills.  So dreamy that I nearly missed our turning to Welford! We were further surprised to find another Patience just leaving Welford. There are 56  entries for Patience according to The Boat Index so the name is more common than we thought, but we've only seen three other boats called Patience in our seven years of boating.
Final painting of the fore deck and the roof and another excellent value meal at The Wharf in Welford. It felt like more than three days - but in a good way.

Hail Welford!

We cut short our planned expedition because of unpredictable weather and so fortunately missed very heavy rain on Monday. However no sooner had we boarded Patience in Welford than we were hit by sack loads of hail!

 

Yes that's hail, not broken glass ....

 

When we finally left the marina John spotted that the water temperature was shooting up and sure enough, after a bit of a panic about possible perforated hoses and dodgy alternators, we realised there was simply not enough water in the radiator. Why we're not sure, (never happened before or since) but by simply topping it up (with nearly a gallon) we were able to go on without a problem.

And so we enjoyed most of the trip up to Foxton (when not caught in heavy showers) and were able to relax into a fine sunny evening and a good meal at the Foxton Locks Inn.

We moored above the lock staircases and close to the delightful statue of the boy leading a horse along the tow path.

Foxton to Market Harborough and a bit of the Leicester Arm

Clearing Foxton Locks we turned sharp right into the Market Harborough Arm, having opened the little swing bridge first. As the Foxton Locks are so deep and a staircase, and there are two swing bridges on the Market Harborough Arm, this is not easy territory for single handed boating.

In fact the second swing bridge, Bridge 4, shown here, would seem impossible to use single handedly. You must moor on the left going up, walk across the bridge to the other side, insert your key in the mechanism, go off to close road barriers at both ends, return to the mechanism, release a brake and push with considerable effort so the road swings at 90 degrees. At this point solo boaters would find there was no way to get back to their boat (even assuming they'd separated their engine key from the waterways key used for the bridge mechanism).
Fortunately John and I were able to slip easily across and leave the bridge behind us.

Much of the Market Harborough Arm is in quiet tree-lined countryside with a few views through the trees. That changes from Bridge 13, notable for what seems to be a travellers' site of mobile homes and wrought iron gates. The number on the bridge is actually pockmarked with pellets, which is not promising, and an adjacent house is for sale. Here the canal edges are poorly defined until we are clearly on the outskirts of the town and bungalows with well cut hedges and lawns slope down to the water.

Soon enough there are good moorings and there is the Basin beautifully defined with an old warehouse converted to an up-market restaurant - The Waterfront restaurant here is partnered to The Old Boathouse  at Foxton Locks - some modern flats, architecturally in keeping with the site, and narrow boats moored neatly alongside pontoons. There are fuel and pump-out services. This is where the first Inland Waterways Association Festival was held, by Aickman and Rolt in 1950.
The town centre is just 15 minutes away, with a diverse range of shops and a purposeful atmosphere. Having been impressed by Symington's Corset Factory, home of the liberty bodice and now a museum, we pause for a quiet pint at The Angel and head back to Foxton to moor up by the swing bridge and have another evening meal at The Old Boathouse.

Morning Mist at Foxton Locks

Next day we venture a little up the Leicester Arm, which is the third arm at Foxton junction, as far as the winding hole near Bridge 72, and the Smeeton aqueduct, a little before Saddington Tunnel. From several sources we hear that vandalism in Leicester and immediate surrounds make mooring a dangerous pursuit, as local lads compete to throw stones and smash windows of boats. We did see some broken boat windows near Market Harborough and wondered why there were wooden shutters over some of the windows. We are assured it is safe as far as Kilby Bridge, but north of that Leicester is best passed through without delay.
Here is the view back at Foxton, seen from the end of the Leicester Arm. The Boathouse restaurant is directly ahead, the Bridge 61 café / pub is immediately to the right after the bridge and mooring places for those queuing for the locks are directly to the left and right after the bridge. You must report to the lock keeper before entering the locks so moor up immediately after the bridge where you can.

Our return to Welford pausing at Husband's Bosworth and North Kilworth is noted in the previous blog.

Welford to Foxton return, via Husband's Bosworth and North Kilworth

This was a four day trip from our base at Welford, up to Foxton, through the locks and beyond.  
We popped in to Husbands Bosworth even though The Bell is closed on Monday lunchtimes. On a beautiful day the village was looking very attractive, with pleasant variety of houses and a sprinkling of expensive cars. There is a single general store and post office in a run-down state being replaced, it would seem, by something more contemporary.
The trip through the tunnel was uneventful; the moorings for the village about half a mile away are a bit rough but usable if you beware shallow areas. This shot from mid stream opposite the moorings shows the poster for The Bell, Bridge 46 and the tunnel entrance.

The canal between Husbands Bosworth and Foxton is a green corridor with very occasional glimpses of the Laughton Hills where there is a break in the trees lining the towpath. In good weather, wise boaters have moored there to savour the view, so look out for the ideal sunny spot over the hills.
We moored for the night above Bridge 60 rather than clutter the immediate approach to the staircase of locks (best reserved for watering up or for queuing) and strolled down to sample the site. Access to the locks is controlled by a lock keeper and his assistants and there is a 8am to 6pm limit.

We resolved to eat in The Old Boathouse and to set off promptly through the locks in the morning. Good food (and wi-fi except in corners) but expensive beer. If you prefer to cook for yourself or to have plainer fare try the Bridge 61 café where the beer is 40p cheaper!
Next day we boated the last few yards up the misty morning river to the Top Lock to commence the 45 minute trip through the ten locks. It's a beautiful scene even when descending into the deep slimy trench which is a staircase lock. The countryside is alternately revealed then disappears as if you are going up and down in a lift - er, which you are.

As no-one was heading upwards we shot down at a gallop - except for my bumping into the middle pound, exactly as I did twenty years ago on my very first canal holiday ... (here's the view from just below the pound looking back up to the top lock)

 - then a tight turn right towards the first swing bridge for the Market Harborough Arm. More on that in the next blog.

On our way back, two days later, the locks were busier and we were in a queue, with boats waiting for more than an hour to enter, plus 45-50 minutes to get through. However this did give us time to explore the museum - informative and interesting without being too large.

We reached Bridge 46, the Husbands Bosworth rough mooring, again to spend the night and walked up to the village once more, to The Bell. Frankly its decor feels more like a dishevelled student flat than an eating pub, and the landlord seemed morose and oblivious to his awkward mixture of soft furnishings. Nevertheless, cheered by the low beer price (in contrast to the outrageous mark up at The Old Boathouse at Foxton) we ordered the pub grub - and were very pleasantly surprised by quality and quantity. The landlord's mouth broke into a semblance of a smile when we complimented him on his "cooking" but it really was rather good fish and chips and steak and ale pie.
Wielding our torches we returned to Patience for the night.
Next day, after 12 minutes in the tunnel we dropped in to the very useful North Kilworth Marina for a pump out and a top up of diesel. We also talked to Ben the painter about the possibility of a repaint for Patience, whose sides are becoming a bit worn. A good price offered for 6-8 weeks work, and we'll think seriously about it for next year.
Back to Welford in good time after a successful trip.

Welford to Foxton

Now that Welford Marina is Patience's new home (and very pleased she is with it!), we have planned several trips to explore our new patch. So Duncan and Jenny set out to head north up the Leicester Arm for the short but delightful 9 miles up to Foxton. It was from Foxton that we set off on our very first family narrow boat holiday in 1994.
With only one lock (that on the Welford arm) between the marina and Foxton Top Lock we had an easy time of it with only the Husband's Bosworth tunnel to negotiate and the rest beautiful calm green countryside and harvested fields, the sun beaming down on us all the way to Foxton for about 4 hours.

We approached the Foxton top lock, turned in the side arm that once lead to the inclined plane and came back under Bridge 60 to moor.

Moorings directly above the Top Lock are best kept for those waiting to go down the locks, or filling up with water.

 

Above Bridge 60 there were ample moorings, including one Candy Boat supplying sweets.

On arrival we explored the locks and ended up in the Foxton Locks Inn - good grub, good selection of beers, delightful sitting out in sunshine by the waterfront.

Next day we returned to the locks as gongoozlers and admired the way the locks are planned with side ponds to hold the water and direct it to the next lock in the staircase.
The trick, as a boater, is to open the red paddle followed by the white paddle. This fills one lock and empties the next, while directing the water into the pond for re-use. Much more detail here.

Looking up from just below the central pound which divides the two lock staircases so boats can pass each other half way through the flight.

Again looking up the flight, from a vantage point on top of the museum which was the engine house for the inclined plane. The lock keeper's house is the white building at the top.

Looking down from near the top of the flight. This is gongoozler heaven! The museum is the red brick building on the right

The museum is excellent and well worth seeing. It explains the working of locks and this system in particular, the history and significance of Foxton locks and would be of interest to all ages.
The mechanism for the Inclined Plane, which from 1900 to 1911 moved boats speedily up a steep gradient, avoiding the slow and tiring locks and saving water, was sold off for scrap in the 1920's but enough remains to visualise the engineering achievement and envy the system.

 The Inclined Plane in 1900

One of the pulley wheels around which the cables turned, holding the caissons in which the boats sat for their journey up or down the plane.

See The Anderton Lift and The Falkirk Wheel amongst other remarkable boat lifts for ways of moving a boat up or down between water levels.

How wonderful it is that people come from far and wide to be awestruck by engineering ingenuity!



Our return trip (another 9 miles with the Welford lock and the Husbands Bosworth tunnel, was equally attractive and enjoyable. Welford to Foxton - a good trip of two short days with overnight stay. And our new fridge worked brilliantly!