Crick to Braunston

Wednesday 24th September. Heavy rain overnight clears early and by the time we've passed through Crick Tunnel the sun is out. Before we know it we are under the M1 and queuing to go through Watford Locks. If we had a Ladybird book at about Bridge 5A it would show a fast train on the west coast railway line, the M1 motorway and Services and the Leicester Arm of the Grand Union canal (plus a plane flying above) all in the same place, for they almost interconnect here, near Long Buckby.

As we go under Bridge 6 I recall eating terrible fish and chips at the restaurant there 20 years ago, now renamed Mango Lounge and closed.
It takes an hour to get through Watford Locks (staircase, 7 locks, 16metre fall) ...

... even with a helpful lock keeper, then we reach Norton Junction at 1pm and, not pausing for lunch at the tempting pub to the left we charge on to the right and  on the Grand Union proper.

 Through the Braunston Tunnel for 20 minutes and we approach that boater's mecca of Braunston itself, though there are still 6 locks to go through before we reach the moorings by the marina. So it is 3.45 before we finally moor up, 10 miles, 13 locks in 6 hours 20 minutes including 30 minutes waiting at Watford Locks.
In late afternoon we wander up the hill away from the canal and into the village. Down by the canal it feels like a full-on canal village with hundreds of boats, busy comings and goings, two chandleries, eating places and various shops - but in the village itself they live a separate life, it seems.

Bridge over the Junction of The Oxford and The Grand Union

The Junction facing south down the Oxford Canal

Bridge on The Grand Union at the entrance to Braunston Marina

Under the bridge at the marina entrance

In the evening we stroll back up the towpath to The Admiral Nelson, widely recommended as the best for food and we entirely agree. Here is a view as we entered the lock on our way down.  It's a good place where we were well looked after and well fed.

Back to Patience, torches in hand, and we notice that Winter Moorings commence on October 1st. Clearly we are nearing the end of the season, when only hardened liveaboards stay out on the water. So we light our little stove, newly renovated, and our thoughts stray towards winter.

Through to Crick

Day 4: Weedon Bec to Crick
Leaving Weedon Bec will take us along the Grand Union main line for a while before turning right at Norton Junction up the Leicester arm.
It rained last night, heavily at times, and just as several things have already malfunctioned (shower pump, engine mounting, the log ...) we realise there is a faint drip around the chimney and the fridge is warming instead of cooling. The milk is already sour.
After a body and hair wash in the basin we're off, sandwiched at times between west coast trains and M1 traffic but heading north towards Braunston as all the milestones tell us. We spot a surprising number of old working boats with their long cargo holds and small cabins and we shoot through seven locks partnered by a young couple with an immaculate working boat - A and N Buckle from The Nene - to reach the New Inn at Norton Junction for lunch at 12.30.

Norton Junction

The Fish and chips are good, the waitress hard working, the barman lugubrious and often disappearing as soon as customers enter the pub. We attempt to bid him a cheery farewell but he avoids our gaze as if we'd taken advantage of him. Don't go there if you're looking for bonhomie.
Now the decision is whether to crack on and climb the seven locks at Watford or to moor at the bottom and reserve the pleasure of climbing to the next day. At this point the insistent rain clears for awhile and we decide to motor on.

Watford locks is a set of six partly in a staircase (where the top of one acts as the bottom of the other) and as I opt to do the locking for a change I'm greatly relieved to find that there is a lock keeper willing to help us on our way. Malcolm is a friendly and able CRT volunteer who knows what he's doing and guides me through the red and white side paddles as we work our way slowly uphill.

Crick Tunnel

And so to the top and on a short way to Crick through the Crick Tunnel, gloomy and dripping but literally with a light at the end of the tunnel, which is reassuring. Do wear waterproofs as you go through.

The Moorings restaurant at Crick

And finally we are out at the Crick marina with only a short trip to Welford tomorrow.
Apart from lunchtime the rain has held off, but the fridge has definitely given up the ghost. Nevertheless Patience has done well and the end of the journey is in sight. It's been attractive country scenes and tow path all the way and tonight we can relax in peaceful moorings (it's quietest after the bridge and a little away from it).
In the evening to a very busy Friday evening at the Red Lion, where it is too hot to stay long, and we are thoroughly soaked in a sudden downpour on the way back to the boat.
Today: 10 miles, 14 locks, 6.5 hours

Northampton to Gayton and beyond

Day 3: Northampton to Weedon Bec
Up betimes to another sunny day though some cloud cover could hint at more moderate weather to come.
Past a deserted industrial warehouse and its pigeons, past the grassy park littered with last night's revelry and into a series of 17 narrow locks that come thick and fast. This is where a third crew member would be great, going ahead to prepare the lock so we don't have to moor up first.
Sometimes the overflow comes rushing in from the sides and pushes the boat across. Just when you think you're on target you're heading for a wall, while slowing down means you lose the velocity to counter the side force. Sometimes you just have to go for it - which is why they describe canal boating as a contact sport ....
Under the M1 by way of a giant concrete pipe ...

 

and at last to Lock number 1, end of the flight of 17

We pause for lunch at Gayton, which marks the junction between the Northampton Arm and the main line, (it's a sign of our growing confidence as well as our fatigue that we can stop for lunch) then on through a blissfully lock-free area to Weedon Bec, mooring opposite a wharf and within earshot of the main west coast railway which broadcasts the sound as of rushing wind and doesn't disturb us at all.

There has been some vibration in the stern in the last few hours and now John, ever alert, finds (secretly to his delight, I believe) that one of the engine mountings is loose, probably as a result of our collision with the log yesterday. This gives John the opportunity to wield his Massive Adjustable Spanner in earnest and soon the engine is rebalanced.
Here at Weedon Bec we have exceeded our route expectations by about 2.5 hours.
We visited here on our original search for moorings and by chance came upon an area that was built as a military ordnance depot in the Napoleonic area. It was chosen as a place as far from the sea as possible yet reached by canal so weaponry and gunpowder could be transported here. It was also planned as a last refuge for the King should Napoleon overrun the country. It is still defended by a fierce security man, as we found when we wandered in. It is also a possible site for the Fire Services National Museum, which explains the smattering of fire engines hereabouts. Not much of this can be seen from  the river as we pass, however.
We have an evening meal at the Heart of England (get the reference?) on the road over the bridge from our mooring. Good food and good service.

Today: 11.5 miles, 18 locks, 8 hours