Waterways World

We happily subscribe to Waterways World and love the Pull-Out Guides for the regions. This month (February 2013) we have more interest than usual because there are two articles on our boating area: one describes the "Cruise of a Lifetime" - 344 miles from Llangollen to the Little Ouse - and a guide to the Middle Levels.
The long cruise starts in Wales and makes its way across England to the river Nene (where we are now) describing the experience as "drifting timelessly through rural middle England, past quaint stone-built villages and historic watermills". Oundle (our mooring) is "the icing on the sumptuous Nene cake". So we look forward to the boating season with additional rose tinted glasses - but actually, it's true!
The Middle Levels are said to be: "remote adventurous cruising" and more than just a transit route between the Ouse and the Nene. Indeed this is what we found. It also describes the problems of weed clogging the prop, which we experienced in 2012, to our great frustration.
See our earlier blogs for example here for the Nene and here for the Middle Levels as we saw them.
Oh, and one other reason for enjoying the article on the  west to east trip across England - it ends with a lovely pic of Patience in front of Kings College Chapel, taken by David Coppendale when we navigated the Cam in 2011.
So here's another glimpse of that trip along The Backs of the colleges in Cambridge. One of the blog entries for that trip is here. We recommend the eastern region, Nene, Middle and Great Ouse!

Stanground standstill

Monday 25th
Off before 8 to be sure to catch our Stanground appointment (make sure you phone ahead to warn the lock keeper).
On the western outskirts of Whittlesey there is a very narrow channel with a sharp bend (next to The Hero pub, named after local hero Sir Harry Smith, not Nelson).

Narrow channel, sharp bend, at Whittlesey

There follows an attractive rural stretch spoiled by a desperate and chaotic farm where sad and filthy cows lick at the crooked timbers of a lopsided barn floating in a muddy marsh and where the only visible working machine is a tractor with no front axle. Cold Comfort Farm lives on here.
Beyond this, representatives of yesterday and tomorrow stand tall, side by side, slender old brick chimneys echoed by modern wind generators.
Arriving at Stanground lock at 9.30 we find that strong stream advice has been notified so we phone the Lower Nene linesman for clarification.
Nene River Inspectors -
upper: 07760 422263
middle: 07768 171256
lower: 07714 064034
He confirms strong stream conditions, worsening over the next few days as they reverse locks to send water down and out of the system. The Stanground lock keeper confirms we pass through at our own risk, and would have to sign an indemnity form. We are not to so foolish and have little option but to retreat. If we had gone through and moored at Peterborough there is a good chance the moorings would become awash.

Stanground lock and lock keeper, with John. Patience sits expectantly in the background.

The number to phone is 0800 80 70 60

Thanking our forward planning, we now aim to go back to Fox's at March, and scold ourselves that we didn't clarify the situation before making the journey this far.

The return journey echoes the  approach but though we have now seen  a temporary end to our expedition to Oundle, this is a pleasant trip. After all, "going up and coming down the river" is what we do. On the bright side we also now have the opportunity to explore the middle level's other channels, probably visiting Ramsey and Benwick, while we're based safely at Fox's - which will be for a month, we imagine. It's a calculated retreat, not a failure. Honest.

March to Whittlesey

Sunday 23rd
Heavy rain overnight but we fill up with water, (there's a tap, accessed using the key we bought at Salters, but no pumpout), newspapers and essentials and next stop Fox's Boatyard.
We clarify some things about the flooding, lock closure, important phone numbers and the like and go on our way with a more suitable windlass and feeling welcomed and more confident in our future plans. For the record the windlass is a two-sizer rather than the tapered one we are more used to on The Ouse. We also confirm that the key for the padlocked area around middle level locks, and the water tap at March (as bought at Salters) is one thing, while the key to downstream guillotine lock gates on the Nene is the same as that used by the Environment Agency along the Great Ouse (a half moon, in section).
Passing more attractive riverside gardens we spy a large torpedo in the garden of the Middle Levels Watermen's Social Club. Oh, the fun they must have at barbecues!
We now crack on under leaden skies though the rain keeps off and it's warm enough not to be uncomfortable.
Crossing the meridian at Floods Ferry we leave the Nene Old Course and head into increasing wind towards Whittlesey on Whitlesey Dyke.
We've seen barn owls, terns, heron, kestrels, woodpeckers and a peacock, but unfortunately it will be the weed and roots we most remember. Treatise on weed and wind here.

Through Ashline Lock using that padlock key again and moored for the night a few hundred yards further on, on the edge of a large recreation ground.

Patiently waiting at Whittlesey in the golden light of evening

Whittlesey on a Sunday night is totally different from March on a Saturday night. In the pub, where the beer and the food is even cheaper than at March, the lads preparing to watch the England v Italy match are quiet and good natured and on the recreation ground groups of lads play five-a-side or skateboard determinedly on a purpose-built course while girls stroll amiably around the field.
Bathed in a golden sundown we watch an outclassed England team struggle to a well deserved exit on penalties. Tomorrow we head for an early appointment at Stanground and hope to hit the Nene at about 11am. Note that Stanground Lock must be booked 24 hours beforehand (phone 01733 566413), and is not open on Sunday afternoons. If river conditions are adverse (too low, too high, too fast) even prior bookings can be cancelled for operational reasons.

Enjoying the Middle Levels

Still Saturday 22nd. A long day ....
After the adventure of crossing from the Ouse into the middle level, then the challenge of the weed and wind, at last we were beginning to enjoy ourselves.  We admired a wedding scene at Upwell, though we really did have to duck under several low bridges along the way. The Middle Level Commissioners do produce a map highlighting the exact height of their low bridges.
We do find a shortage of up to date online information about river conditions. You could try the Middle Level site but I note that after the wettest June in living memory it still refers to "the current drought in the coming spring". You'd do better to use mobile numbers.
For the record: Stanground Lock is 01733 566 413 and Salters Lode is 01366 382 292.
Fox's Boatyard is 01354 652 770.
After Marmont Priory (please phone ahead, 01945 773 959 ) with its very helpful lock lady, beautiful cat and surprising peacock, the river has less weed for a while, is broader and we pick up speed.

Wind generators stalk the countryside, the entrance to March is attractive with riverside gardens and an infinite variety of sheds and summer houses and we go past the main moorings to tie up past the Broad Street bridge. It's shaded by trees and opposite the water tap (pump out closed down) and vulnerable to vandalism perhaps, but it's convenient to the town centre for newspapers, pubs, and food.

March could be attractive, and has had money spent on it to enhance its Victorian splendours, but on Saturday evening the kids run wild in the parks while older folks get shouting drunk in the Olde Griffin on cheap beer and loud music. We eat inexpensively, make our excuses and retreat.
Organising our journey onward now throws up several problems.  Stanground lock is closed on Sunday evening so we have to book a precise time slot for Monday morning and to leave early to reach it. Meanwhile we hear there is strong stream advice for the Nene but we can't find out precisely what's going on.
We opt to visit Fox's Boatyard on the way up as it's only a mile away on the other side of March, and ask their advice. Could we retreat to there if all else fails?
Pondering our options onward we retire and sleep despite the lunacy around us. The kids keep at it well into the night and in our dreams we hear the screams of girls and the roar of boys interspersed with police sirens.

Braving wind and tide

Saturday 23rd and I'm up at 6 am in bright sunlight to recce the area, including the lock, the sandbank and the sharp turn through Salters Lock. The wind is blustery, the sand bank large and right in front of the lock. This is going to be fun! 

Important note 1: you have to book 24 hours ahead for passage through the lock. This will also verify the time of your passage, which depends on the tide. Phone 01366 382 340 for Denver, or if approaching from the Middle Levels use 01366 382 292 for Salters Lode Lock.

Important note 2: narrow boats should clear their roofs including aerials and chimneys as bridges are very low after here. Access Middle level maps including low bridge heights.

First, the recce. Taken from the bridge over the sluice and looking north at low tide, in this picture the lock is on the right and the sandbank dead ahead, between lock and river channel. Another channel is coming in from the left.

 

Walking a few hundred yards up the west bank you can see  the entrance to Salters Lock. It is at an acute angle so boaters heading east have a very sharp left turn to make into quite a narrow entrance (hence the many tyres). Another reason for booking your passage is to coordinate boats coming through Salters and Denver locks.

 A more straight-on view of Salters Lock. Any further north of this and you'll be heading for The Wash!

 Returning to Denver lock, so facing south to the lock on the left, sluice to the right and the sandbank in front.

 Now the action. Moving up to the landing stage in good time we are first into the lock, out ...

... and negotiate the now hidden sandbank by turning sharp left to the middle of the stream then sharp right to avoid a hidden mudbank, 200 yards downstream then very sharp left down the narrow alley to Salters, under a series of very low arched bridges and into the lock.

In Salters Lock facing west

In Salters Lock, facing east

We buy a £3 key giving access to middle level lock padlocks and off we go!